Language
  • English
  • Deutsch
Topics




Shop
Card Models Model Plans Silicones Photo Etching Service Tools Fibre Glass Hulls Accessories Planks, Wood Materials
Show Cart
Your Cart is currently empty.
Model Market
Classifieds
eBay Offers
Books (Amazon.com)
Santa Maria & Nina
Norske Love
RMS Titanic
Abachi
Abachi
€5.64
Add to Cart

Turnbuckle Fork
Turnbuckle Fork
€2.32
Add to Cart

Newsletter Subscription






Photo Etching in Model Building
Monday, 18 September 2006

Plate for tall ship Dar Mlodziezy
Plate for tall ship Dar Mlodziezy
The only way to create very detailed and accurate pieces from brass or copper is to Photo Etch. I searched the internet here and there and found quite few methodologies, where most of them refer to preparing PCB circuit boards. There is significantly less articles on photo etching at home for modellers. And in the end there is certainly less with decent pictures and examples from home usage.

 

Up to now I used paper/foil and iron method. Now I see the difference! Here's how I did it....

 

 

 

Photoresist Positiv20
Photoresist Positiv20
Being challenged by the necessity of creating really nicely looking letters for my ship, and having failed to do so using iron and glossy paper method, I decided to move full speed towards proper photo etching. 

Required materials:

 

Preparing the foil

I have already written before in the text on etching itself about how to make the foils. You have almost full freedom in terms of design; however you have to stick to few rules:

  • what is black on the foil will remain i.e. will not be etched.
  • try to stick as many items onto the plate as possible to have the least possible amount of metal to be etched out.
  • there is only black and white, no grays.

 

  I have tested laser and ink printers, and for etching ink printers are more suitable. Make sure you use proper foil; it must be transparent foil for ink jets! Otherwise printer ink will never dry. Well, perhaps it will but much longer, and will not stick to the foil properly.

 

Preparing metal plate

Brass covered with Positiv20
Brass covered with Positiv20

Brass ready for spraying
Brass ready for spraying

I find that part of work the most difficult and tricky and… time consuming. Photoresist varnish comes in a spray and should be used in sort of darkness, however full darkness is not required. Manual mentions that yellow light can be used. Well, I bought small 40 watts yellow bulb but still point it completely opposite direction when applying photoresist. The plate must be absolutely clean! To have slightly rough surface I sand it with water paper (1000), the paint will stick better to metal that way. Finally I apply the varnish on both sides of brass or copper plate and close it some box and let it dry till next day.

 

Exposure to UV (ultraviolet rays)

Exposing to UV rays
Exposing to UV rays
Now it is time to expose photo sensitive varnish to light. I cut out printed foil and tape them together making sure that both sides match and diagrams neatly overlap. Make sure you the ink is inside our foil sandwich, it should be touching the metal. Then I take 2 clean transparent plastic CD covers and with small clamps I finally fix the sandwich with. All those activities were done under dim yellow light. Now I hide the plate and switch on my 300W Osram Ultra-Vitalux UV sun bulb. The lamp needs around 2 minutes to fully shine. After that time I place the plate under the lamp for 2-3 minutes for each side.

 

Developing

Last step done in the dark. Exposed varnish must be developed and preserved. This is done by putting the plate in the solution of sodium hydroxide – NaOH (caustic soda). The one I had according to the manual I should have used 10g for 1 litre of water. It was too strong, I ended up with having around 5g per litre. This should be experimented. If solution is too strong, then all our work will be totally washed away. Assuming the solution is fine, after 10-20 seconds, our painted pattern should show up on the plate. Another minutes or so in the container, and plate should be cleaned with water.

 

Etching

Brass being etched
Brass being etched
Etching in natrium persulphate
Etching has started
The hardest part is done. Now only etching is left. I use either natrium persulphate or ferric III chloride. Natrium persulphate is more sensitive to temperature, and should be warmed till around 40-50 centigrades. If it is too cold, etching process can take ages. Ferric chloride is not so temperature sensitive, but you cannot see anything as it is not transparent. I have built small vertical container for my etching as plate ideally should be placed in vertical position. Depending on the temperature and thickness of brass or copper etching process will take around half an hour. If the solution is stronger perhaps that time could be shortened. But I was not in a hurry.

 

And here are my photo etched letters already attached to the bulwark. They look fantastic!

 

Photo etched letters on the hull
Etched letters on the hull
Photo Etching
Photo etching in brass 0.3mm
Letters for K.u.K Truglav
Letters for K.u.K Truglav

Photo-Etching Service 

If you need some photo etched parts, sets to your model and you cannot do it yourself at home, please let me know. I will be happy to help you. All I need is the drawing ideally in CAD or CorelDraw. Should I have the drawings the whole thing will be easier. The price depends on the complexity and amount of manaterials used. In any case please contact me by email: This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it or visit Photo Etching Service for a quotation.

 

Special etching machine at Conrad - vertical bath with air pump and solution heating system.


 

 

Last Updated ( Sunday, 23 December 2007 )
 
< Prev   Next >