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Sunday, 22 April 2007 |
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Tin Alloy Casting. I think the movie says it all, well almost. It is a bit dark in some moments but I hope that those undecided can judge that it is not that hard in the end.
Few words of explanation. Tin alloy I placed in old camping pot and put it on fire in the kitchen. The pot will increase its size as the temperature rises so most probably you will hear some funny noises. After about 5 minutes the tin will start to melt. I switched on the camera at that point so you can see me already stirring it. Final step is simply to delicately pour into the mould.
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 23 December 2007 )
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Wednesday, 11 April 2007 |
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Model building reality requires to prepare number of gun barrels for my galleon Wodnik. So time came to cast them!
Final material that will be used for casting has not been chosen yet i.e. it will be either polyester resin or tin alloy.
Having that in mind I chose form material that can work with both e.g. SYMSIL T silicone rubber, which is quite hard and can withstand casting solution with temperature of up to 300°C.
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 23 December 2007 )
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Sunday, 04 February 2007 |
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This morning while preparing for bending of my 2nd wale on the stem of my 17th century galleon Wodnik, I thought I would capture all my steps while bending 3 x 5 mm (0.11 x 0.19 inches ) African walnut planks.
Since my planks are 3 mm thick and walnut is relatively hard wood, simple candle solution I used before would not work I assumed. Few weeks ago I bought 30 watt soldering iron which you can buy from many model local or on-line shops. It looks as normal soldering iron but is a bit weaker and has this round ending nob.
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 23 December 2007 )
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Thursday, 01 February 2007 |
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Post originally posted on MSW , Thanasis also agreed to place at BoatModelling.com. Thank you.
Hi mates. Although there are many ways to scratch deadeyes here is another one maybe more simple.
1. Depending on scale, from a wooden rod cut slices as the deadeye’s bodies…and with a simple jig, drill the three holes on each one.
2. Take one deadeye and put three pins in its holes. Choose the right chuck for your rotary tool so as this can secure the three pins together on it. When you place the deadeye (with the pins) on the tool you must put the pins as deep you can in order you have the deadeye as close you can to the tool’s end. Put on your protection eyeglasses.
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 23 December 2007 )
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Sunday, 21 January 2007 |
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Quite seldom but it does happen that when we build our model we need wooden blocks that are of different shape or size. And have to choose to buy those which do not really fit the scale or shape or to build them yourself!I face that issue when building my model of carrack. There was nothing else to do but to start working.
Very important is to choose right material, the best would be boxwood but since I did not have one pear wood would had to be just as good. Pear seems to be ideal for such small items because of its characteristics and easiness to work with being relatively hard at the same time. I think for items like blocks, deadeyes and other small accessories all fruit trees will be good because of their hardness and density. Working with fruit wood is not difficult at all once you have proper sharp tools.
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 23 December 2007 )
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